2021 Kimari Chardonnay, Santa Cruz Mnts

This sweet little home vineyard in Aptos-Corralitos, formerly known as Howard Family Vineyard, is under new ownership. Kim and Ari Novick, and their star viticulturalist Prudy Foxx, are making all the right moves. Amending depleted soil, beating back the encroaching forest, converting everything to biodynamic farming. They have even planted a vine nursery and plan to do selection massale (making a selection of particular vines within an old vineyard and using this subset as the genetic stock for all replants). Their mid-1980s planting of dry-farmed Wente Chardonnay is one of the oldest plantings in Santa Cruz, and preserving this special material is well worth the effort.

This wine is all about laser beams. An elixir of oyster shells, lemon curds, lemongrass, and Himalayan rock salt. Currently featured on the esteemed tasting menu at Michelin 3-Star SingleThread Farms.